HAIR COLORING

CHAPTER OUTLINE

• Why study hair coloring
• Why people color their hair
• Hair facts
• Identifying natural hair color and tone
• Types of haircolor

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• Consulation
• Haircolor formulization
• Haircolor applications

WHY STUDY HAIRCOLORING?

• Provides stylists and clients with opportunity for creative expression and artistry
• Clients increasingly asking for serivce to cover grey, enhance haircuts and camouflage
• Being aware of harsh chemicals in colour and how they work enable a safe service

WHY PEOLE COLOR THEIR HAIR

• Cover or blend grey hair
• Enhance existing hair color
• Fashion statement or self-expression
• Correct unwanted tones caused by environmental factors
• Accentuate a particular haircut

HAIR FACTS

The structure of the clients hair and the desired results determine which haircolor to use. The hair structure affects the quality and ultimate success of the service. Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair, while others cause relatively little change. Knowing how products affect the hair will allow you to make the best choices for your client.

Hair Structure
The CUTICLE is the outer layer of the hair. It protects the interior cortex layer and contributes up to 20% of the overall strength of the hair.
The CORTEX is the middle layer and gives the hair majority of its strength and elasticity. A healthy cortex contributes 80% of the overall strength of the hair. Containing the natural pigment called melanin that determines hair color.
The MEDULLA is the innermost layer of the hair. It is sometimes absent from the hair and doesn't play a role in the hair coloring process.

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TEXTURE!
Hair texture is the diameter of an individual hair strand. Melanin is distributed differently according to texture. Fine hair melanin are grouped tightly so the hair takes color faster and look darker! Medium texture has an average reaction to haircolor. Course texture has larger diameter and loosely grouped melanin, and can take longer to process.

Density!
The number of hairs per square inch, can range from thin to thick. Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor, to ensure proper coverage.

Porosity!
Hair's ability to absorb moisture. Porus hair accepts color faster, and haircolor application on porus hair can result in a cooler tone than applications on less porous hair.
LOW- the cuticle is tight. The hair is resistant, which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate. Thus, requiring more processing time
AVERAGE- the cuticle is slightly raised. The hair is normal and processes in an average amount of time
HIGH- the cuticle is lifted. The hair is overly porous and takes colour quickly, also tends to fade quickly. Permed, coloured, relaxed, and straightened hair will have high porosity.

IDENTIFYING NATURAL HAIR COLOR & TONE

Eumelanin- lends black and brown colors to hair
Pheomelanin- gives blonde and red colors to hair
Mixed melanin - combination of natural hair color that contains both Pheomelanin and eumelanin.
Contributing pigment- also known as underlying pigment, is the varying degree of warmth when lightening or coloring the hair.

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The level system:
Unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. Level is the saturation, density or concentration of color. Levels are arranged on a scale of 1 - 10. Or darkest- lightest. Names may vary amoung manufacturers, the important thing is being able to identify the degrees of lightness and darkness.

Identifying Natural Level!

The first step in performing a haircolor service. Your most valuable tool is the colour wheel. Haircolor swatches provide a visual representation as well.

Grey Hair!
Lost its pigment and is normally associated with aging. Can be solid or blended throughout the head. Requires special attention in formulating haircolor.

Color Theory: The Law of Color
System for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination. Equal parts of red and blue mixed together always make violet. Blue and yellow always make green. Red and yellow always make orange.

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PRIMARY, SECONDARY AND TERITARY COLORS

Types of Haircolor
Haircoloring products generally fall into two categories: nonoxidative and oxidative. The classifications of nonoxidative color are temporary and semi permanent. The classification of oxidative color are demipermanent (deposit only) and permanent (lift and deposit).

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All PERMANENT haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkali zing ingredient. Raises the cuticle so that the color can penetrate into the cortex. Also increases penetration of dye within the hair. Triggers the lightening action of peroxide. Lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks up or decolorizes the melanin.

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